Workshop on raising chickens: not for the squeamish

CORNWALL — In an airy barn next to an ivy-covered silo, pretty brown jersey calves loll in hay-filled stalls. Nearby, the red glow of a heat lamp bathes newly hatched chicks. In another hay-strewn room, a small group of people is finishing lunch.

And preparing to kill a chicken.

It is a snapshot of farm life. Some could find it offensive. But those attending a Motherhouse workshop at Local Farm on Saturday were there to learn skills that were part of everyday life not many generations ago.

One participant said she feels a sense of discomfort at being so completely reliant on others for food and other necessities.

The nurturing spirit that defines motherhood, and farming, is the basis for Motherhouse Inc., a nonprofit officially established in 2003.

It began, not as a home for unwed mothers (as some assumed from the name), but as a way to share the peace and sense of comfort that former teacher Debra Tyler found on the farm, particularly while raising her own children there.

Attaining the state of mind that allows for nurturing spirituality isn’t easy. It comes only after hard work — and sometimes, ironically, through a lot of stress.

The Motherhouse workshops, programs, contra dances and a specialty marketplace all began as mother/daughter retreats just a few years ago.

The most popular offerings these days are the Old Style Life Skills workshops, which attract young and old, female and male, the curious and those intent on finding a degree of self-reliance at the most basic level.

Amidst the pickle-making, yarn-spinning and family cow workshops is a sort of make-it-or-break-it attitude approached by some as a means of testing their mettle.

Participants last week had spent the rainy morning in the barn, learning about the art of raising chickens.

Now it was time to get down to the part that was described by one as “not for the squeamish.�

Tyler’s daughter, Margaret Hopkins, explained each step of the process, from the first step of using a knife in the bird’s mouth to quickly sever the spinal cord to the final step of gutting and preparing the bird for roasting.

Just outside, a pot of water was heating to a boil over a campfire.

Margaret, a teenager who is home-schooled, headed to a cage in a field where a group of chickens seemed not to know how to react. Were they being fed? Did they know one was leaving, to never come back? They huddled in a corner as Margaret stepped into the cage.

“It doesn’t matter. Whichever one I can grab,� she said, when asked how she would pick the one whose life was about to end.

You don’t get attached, she said. You keep your perspective within the food chain.

Holding the chosen one by its feet, she let it hang so the blood could drain into its head, which has a calming effect, and allows it to bleed out faster.

As she stood in the barn holding the doomed chicken, she continued to explain the process while a 2-and-a-half-year-old girl crouched down to talk to it.

With her parents close by, she said yes when asked if she liked chickens, and said she likes to eat chickens. (Her mom said she is in a stage where she will say yes to everything). Still, she knew what was coming and reacted only with curiosity as the chicken was killed, bled and dipped in boiling water to loosen the feathers for plucking.

Her young, attentive father remarked that he grew up with deer carcasses hanging from the porch rafters.

“It didn’t harm me,� he said.

His wife explained that they live in the city of New Haven, where they are hoping to acquire more land. For now, the city allows them to keep up to six chickens. They plan to raise them for meat and eggs.

“We really wanted her to see where her food comes from,� said her mom, who preferred not to have their names used. “Kids only know that you go to the store and buy chickens wrapped in plastic. They need to know there is a step before this.�

Nina LaPorta, who grew up nearby on Popple Swamp Road, has been studying sustainable agriculture in college. There, she helped with slaughtering, but was spared taking part in what she thinks would bother her most.

“I never had to actually kill any chickens,� she said. “Once they were dead, my job was to cut the head off.�

She was very hands-on at Saturday’s workshop, using it as a way of being sure of the track she is on.

“I really want to be able to do this on my own.�

And that pretty much sums it up.

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