The lure of parking and a prize-winning cake

NORTH CANAAN — What sort of businesses make a town center tick? That’s the question on the minds of town officials and merchant these days.

In North Canaan, a successful pattern may be emerging, a combination of eateries and of businesses that offer services. It doesn’t seem to matter if they cater to everyday or occasional needs and desires.

At the Black Forest Bakery and Café (on Route 44, across from the Stop & Shop plaza), owner Sheryl Harper echoes the sentiments of so many others. It would be nice to have a clothing store in town, another gift shop to replace Sidetracks (formerly on Railroad Street), or a yarn and fabric shop.

Those types of shops might open eventually. But at least the town has that one type of storefront that seems to be an essential ingredient of small-town life: a great, old-fashioned bakery, with fresh-made bread, rolls and confections — and, in the case of Black Forest, an award-winning carrot cake.

In addition to the intoxicating smells that float out from the kitchen, Black Forest also attracts customers with homey tables where diners can linger over meals, or over coffee and a sweet treat.

Harper and the bakery have been having a great winter, perhaps the best ever, as they enter their sixth year. Harper sticks by her convictions that fresh food, a fanatically clean café and a bakery case that is a daily work of art are the labor-intensive keys to her success.

It doesn’t hurt that in addition to the shop’s “regulars,� new customers stop in because they see it as they drive by on Route 44.

“We get a lot of people who pull in, I’m sure, because they see a lot of cars in the parking lot,� Harper said. “That’s the first sign that it’s a good place to eat.�

Harper believes that one reason the shop has been able to stick it out despite the down economy is because she keeps things simple.

“We’re not the white tablecloth kind of place,� she said.

She also believes in giving customers value for their dollar with wholesome, freshly made foods.

All that adds up to people feeling comfortable there, Harper said, which means they come back, and recommend it to friends.

That spectacular bakery case was singled out in a recent New York Times article, published  Jan. 3 in the “Quick Biteâ€� column. Harper said it was a busy Sunday afternoon in January when she saw an employee speaking at length with a man.

Later, she saw him taking photographs in the parking lot, and approached him. The man,  it turned out, was Times reporter Christopher Brooks, who does this sort of drive-by review.

Black Forest has also been praised by local publications, including of course The Lakeville Journal, as well as Berkshire Living magazine. Clearly, something is cooking here, and it’s not just eggs, bacon and cakes.

Harper said she believes on-site parking is crucial to most businesses. Despite sufficient parking in the town center, its design and location are not enticing to shoppers.

On the positive side, North Canaan draws shoppers from surrounding towns. There is enough business for everyone, she said.

Black Forest Bakery and Café is open Tuesday through Friday, 6:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturday, 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sunday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. and on Mondays during the warmer months.

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