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Meringues, An Easy Way To Dazzle

Food: Samin Nosrat’s cookbook, ‘Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat’
Photo by Marsden Epworth

This is the time of year when people who love to feed other people strive to dazzle. It’s turning dinner into pageantry. That means trying something new, different and, if possible, hazardous. Which is why I just spent Sunday coaxing the oozy egg white into a sweet, puffy, pale and insubstantial cloud of meringue achieved by sugar, hope and the balky second-hand Kitchen Aid mixer in my pantry.

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