Something new, and in addition to, pumpkin pie

I love pumpkin pie and make it all through the winter. It’s the traditional Thanksgiving dessert and should not be messed with. Make a pumpkin pie, serve it with whipped cream or ice cream, and enjoy it.

But if you’re worried about the carbs and calories that come with the annual turkey dinner, here’s an alternative to serve in addition to, not in place of, the traditional pumpkin pie!

For a couple of years now I’ve been making a crustless ricotta cheesecake, made with super-fresh, super-local ingredients.

It’s delicious and easy. It’s satisfying and creamy but not filling, and because it’s crustless it cuts down on the day’s intense carbohydrate load.

Fair warning, though: It’s expensive if you use all  local ingredients. If you use supermarket substitutes, this cake will still be good but will probably cost about $15 to make, instead of $30.

But if  you want to go for the deluxe, delicious locavore experience, get your eggs at the Wike Brothers farmstand in Sharon on White Hollow Road. These eggs are $4 a dozen and have amazing deep yellow yolks (you can also buy them at LaBonne’s in Salisbury and Jam in Sharon, on Calkinstown Road near the old motel, but they cost slightly more).

Jam also sells the local and luscious ricotta and yogurt you’ll need. They are made by Peter Stephanopoulos, owner of the Four Brothers restaurants as well as the Boathouse in Lakeville.

In addition to running his restaurant empire, Stephanopoulos also raises goats, and with their milk he makes lovely mild chèvre, sweet ricotta and rich, thick Greek yogurt. They are sold at Adams Fairacre Farm in Poughkeepsie, at Jam and at the Four Brothers restaurant in Millerton (call ahead to be sure they have some; you sometimes have to call a day in advance and place an order).

If you buy supermarket dairy products for this cake, be sure to drain the ricotta for an hour. Stephanopoulos’s cheese is drier than the store brands; for this reason, it is also lovely served as an appetizer.

Top it with a little salt and pepper and a drizzle of good olive oil, and serve it with slices of Jam’s outstanding French bread).  

And be sure to buy a Greek yogurt such as Fage if you don’t buy the Four Brothers yogurt.

This recipe calls for sugar, but I usually use Splenda instead. This is one of the few desserts I’ve found that isn’t disrupted by the taste of the sugar substitute.

      Lemon ricotta cheesecake

          Adapted from a 2003

    New York Times Magazine

                         recipe

3 pounds fresh ricotta

1 tablespoon softened unsalted butter

1 teaspoon plus 1 1/2 cups sugar or Splenda

6 large eggs

1 cup Greek yogurt

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest and 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

This cake is best if you make it a day ahead of time and store it overnight in the refrigerator.

If you use store-bought ricotta, drain it over culinary cheesecloth in a colander or sieve for an hour.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Butter the bottom, sides and rim of a 3-by-10-inch springform pan (you can use a plain cake pan, but it’s a little trickier to get the finished cake out of the pan).

Coat the pan with the sugar (put the sugar in the bottom of the pan and then turn and tap until the sugar distributes itself all over the buttered surfaces).

Beat the ricotta at low speed in a mixer for a minute or so, until it smoothes out.

Add the eggs one at a time and then add the remaining sugar.  

Continue to beat at low speed until the mixture is smooth.

Add the yogurt, vanilla and lemon zest and juice and beat just until they’re incorporated. Pour the batter into the pan and smooth the top.

All cheesecakes (and most custard pies) come out better if you cook them in a bain marie (water bath).

Place your cake pan into a larger pan and put both pans in the oven. Fill the larger pan with water up to within an inch of the rim of the cake pan.

Bake for 90 minutes or until golden on top; if you shake the pan gently it should jiggle only the tiniest bit, and you should be able to tap the center of the cake lightly with your finger and not disturb the surface.

To ensure the top doesn’t burn, cover it loosely with foil after the first 30 minutes in the oven.

When the cake is done, remove it from the oven but do not remove it from the water bath; let it cool to room temperature. Take it out of the water bath, dry the pan, remove the foil, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

If you didn’t use a springform pan, loosen the sides with a knife, turn the cake over onto a serving plate and tap until the cheesecake comes free (a warm towel can help loosen the cake up).

This cake is delicious with whipped cream but it’s also creamy and wonderful on its own.

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