Things, Delicious Things, To Eat

Race-car driver, photographer, architect and “gifted chef,� as one acquaintance describes Robert Willis, opens a new restaurant in Lakeville, tonight, Oct. 29: Café Giulia.

   This charismatic, high-energy fellow, loose-limbed, together, charming, has, along with five investors, taken over the one-time Chives at 2 Ethan Allen St., remodeled it with his wife, Tara Kelly (who will be running the front of the house when she’s not copy editing at The Lake­ville Journal), and put together a rustic Italian menu, which includes brick oven pizza. Dishes lean on ingredients like the revered guanciale (unsmoked bacon from hog jowls, made famous by  Mario Batali frying it up on the Food Network) as well as Parmigiano, juniper, anchovies, mint, fennel, bitter greens like broccoli rabe, chilis and garlic, of course.

   And among many desserts, he includes Kelly’s favorite: a pale, trembly panna cotta.

   His love of cooking started early, maybe age 6 or 7, in coastal Maine where he got his hands on a Betty Crocker cookbook and learned to spoon hot butter over eggs sunny side up.

   Otherwise, his family ate baked beans and brown bread, the kind in a can, chop suey from a box, spaghetti and meatballs and a roast on Sunday, the way many Americans ate in the 1960s.

   In high school he discovered “Julia,â€� and learned to make dishes “en croute.â€� While working with an architecture firm, Willis did what many eager and unschooled cooks do. They volunteer. Since it was nearby, he asked chef David Waltuck if he could chop onions at Chanterelle in Tribeca (just closed this month).

   “I liked it a lot. I liked the kitchen environment. I liked working with knives.â€� So, in brief, he went to culinary school and opened the much acclaimed Vaux Bistro in Brooklyn’s Park Slope, which he sold to move to Lakeville.

   Now he’s found just the place for serving up rustic Italian food.

Café Giulia: 2 Ethan
Allen St., Thursday through Monday, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. 860-435-9765.

      

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