Light, Crisp And Unusual

I write this while sipping a Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale, the summer brew offered by the Lagunitas Brewing Company of Petaluma, CA.

   It is a rich, dark gold color with a generous head. The immediate taste is of citrus, followed by a whiff of pine and a bitter aftertaste.  Pine is the flavor that lingers. Beer Advocate calls it an American pale wheat ale, which some call an American IPA.

   The biggest appeal of the Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ is the 1940s-era pinup girl on the label. You feel pretty cool with this bottle in your hand.

   Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale is one of 130 beers at LaBonne’s Epicure Market in Salisbury. The small grocery is tucked away behind the Salisbury Pharmacy, at the end of Academy Street. Though new to the beer business, store manager Rich Stromski has wasted no time in assembling an eclectic and exciting stock.

   “I listen to my customers,â€� Stromski said. “They ask me for different brews, and I try to get them.â€�

   Stromski’s cooler is brimming with unusual beers, from organics like Wolavers and Stone Mill to the gluten-free Red Bridge. Stromski also makes sure to get the standard and seasonal brews from Berkshire Mountain Brewery of Great Barrington. Old standbys — Sam Adams, Heineken, Budweiser  — are stocked, too. And, of course, summer brews are making an appearance. Brooklyn and Magic Hat both make summer ales with “light, crisp tastes,â€� Stromski tells me. He also recommends white beers — “They’re brewed with coriander and orangeâ€� — like Hoegaarden and Blue Moon (my favorite) for hot summer days.

   “A lot of the summer brews have lemon,â€� he said, picking up a Saranac Summer Brew, which claims to be lager and lemonade.

All of LaBonne’s beer is kept cold in a refrigerated case next to the deli. There’s even a case for singles, “So you can try a new beer without being committed to a six-pack,� Stromski said.

With that advice in mind, we created a custom six-pack of The Hairy Eyeball (Lagunitas), Festina Peche (Dogfish Head), Woodchuck Amber Cider, Red Sky at Night (Clipper City Brewery), Hanami Ale (Smuttynose) and the Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale.

Most of these brews were chosen because of their photogenic labels and two-thirds of them turned out to be sweet, fruity concoctions.

The Hairy Eyeball was described as “sticky-sweet� by our tester. It’s a light, honey-colored ale with a medium body. The Festina Peche is medium-bodied, malty and fruity with, of course, peach overtones. The Woodchuck was everything you Continued from page 5

said, picking up a Saranac Summer Brew, which claims to be lager and lemonade. Time to dig in.

   I put together a custom six-pack of The Hairy Eyeball (Lagunitas), Festina Peche (Dogfish Head), Woodchuck Amber Cider, Red Sky at Night (Clipper City Brewery), Hanami Ale (Smuttynose) and the Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale.

   Most of these brews I chose for their photogenic labels and two-thirds of them turned out to be sweet, fruity concoctions.

The Hairy Eyeball was described as “sticky-sweet� by our tester. It’s a light, honey-colored ale with a medium body. The Festina Peche is medium-bodied, malty and fruity with, of course, peach overtones. The Woodchuck was everything you

would expect from a hard cider and the Hanami Ale, made with cherry juice, was sweet and red. These are brews for lawn parties and long, lazy summer afternoons.

   Red Sky at Night and Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ were the two more traditional beers in the group, though neither was ordinary. Red Sky at Night is a sweet and spicy saison ale. Perhaps because I was drinking it alongside the Hanami Ale, I didn’t notice the sweetness as much as the spiciness. There’s some pepper in this brew!

   Out of the six we chose, I’d have to say the Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ was the one I’d buy again, which is unusual for me, since I usually avoid IPAs. But none moved me enough to knock Blue Moon from its perch as my favorite.

I guess I’ll have to go back and try some more.