When the fruit is imperfect, just go ahead and cook it


In last week’s New York Times magazine, chef and writer Daniel Patterson pointed out, when it comes to apricots, it’s very hard to find that ambrosial moment when the fruit is perfectly succulent, juicy and delicious. Too often, apricots, and all other stone fruits, are either hard or mealy. Or not fully in season, and therefore somewhat tasteless.

The trick, Patterson wrote, is to enjoy those perfect fruit moments when they come along but to be prepared to cook your stone fruits on those occasions when they are less then perfect.

Why bother? Stone fruits are one of the pleasures of summer, for one thing. Yes, they can be messy, but the same can be said of watermelon. And how much can you really complain about a food that is so full of life and sugar and flavor that it drips on your shirt? Although if all that dripping really does bother you, once again, cooked fruit might be the answer.

Another incentive for snacking on peaches, apricots, plums and nectarines (which are actually just a type of peach, not a hybrid with a peach and a plum as parents) is the health benefits. They’re full of vitamin C, which is not only good for warding off summer colds but is also a cancer-fighting antioxidant and a natural form of protection for the heart and arteries. Stone fruits are also imbued with lutein and zeaxanthin, which help protect your eyes from cataracts and macular degeneration.

Plums are famously helpful in keeping your digestion regular (especially in their dried form, as prunes). The dried form is effective because it has twice as much fiber as fresh plums, and be sure to eat the skin, which is the source of much of the laxative action. They also help push fatty foods through your system because, again, of all that fiber. Perhaps that’s why dried fruit and nuts are so often served alongside an after-dinner platter of cheeses.

Plums and prunes also help your body absorb iron; and they have been shown to have an abundance of the phenols that specifically protect brain cells and neurons.

Generally, fresh fruits are more nutritious than those that are cooked (with the possible exception of tomatoes). However, plain fruit can get a bit tedious, especially if it is not sublimely ripe. So by all means, add some heat to your stone fruit if it makes it more appealing.

I especially love to make a clafoutis with plums or peaches (for a clafoutis recipe, e-mail me at cynthiah@lakevillejournal.com). Heat the sliced fruit in the buttered baking pan in the oven before you add the batter.

Or just add sliced fruit to breakfast pancakes or French toast (you can cook them in the pastry or you can slice them, cold, on top). They’re also good on oatmeal, especially if you’ve warmed them first in some butter and either honey or maple syrup.

This recipe for caramelized plums is especially wonderful. The paprika offsets the sweetness of the honey and the plums and the fruit is sublime on top of roasted meats, or as a side dish. I haven’t tried the recipe with other stone fruits but I’m confident that apricots and cherries would be fab.

 


Roast chicken

with caramelized plums


Serves two


 

2 chicken breasts

Coarse salt and ground pepper to taste

Olive oil

1 lemon, sliced

 

1/2 onion, sliced

2 plums

1/2 onion, chopped

2 plums, peels on but pits removed, cut into squares

2 tablespoons butter

2 teaspoon fresh grated ginger

1/4 cup chopped scallion greens

1 tablespoon honey

1/8 teaspoon paprika

Coarse salt and ground pepper to taste

 

Roast the chicken breasts in a 400-degree oven. I find they come out juicier if I slice a lemon and an onion into the bottom of the roasting pan and put the chicken breasts on top of them. Drizzle some olive oil over the breasts and add salt and pepper, then roast until the skin is crackling and the meat tender (about 15-20 minutes).

Meanwhile, sauté the chopped onion in the butter over low heat until soft.

Add the plums, ginger, scallions, honey and paprika. Cook over low heat until the plums turn very soft and become almost caramelized, about 10 minutes (depending on the size of your pieces of plum; I recommend keeping the pieces thin, and in squares of about an inch).

Season with salt and pepper to taste (add more paprika if you want extra kick).

You can add the plum mixture to the chicken for the last few minutes of roasting.

 

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