Eating Sparrows, Yearning for Butter

A perfect supper, made in seconds Photo by Marsden Epworth

Most renowned chefs — Jacques Pépin, Daniel Boulud, Thomas Keller, for example — are male and, often, French. But the great food writers are mostly female — Gabrielle Hamilton, Julia Child, M.F.K. Fisher — and  American, with the stunning exception of Elizabeth David, a ravishing observer of people, ingredients and manners, born a Brit in 1913.

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