The robust onion, it turns out, is actually good for you


We mostly think of onions and garlic as condiments or flavor enhancers, but (like most unprocessed foods) they also have health benefits: They’re rich in phenolics and flavonoids, which act as antioxidants — in other words, they clean up destructive, potentially cancer- causing elements in the body; and they inhibit the growth of substances that can damage cells.

Onions and garlic are so easy to add to every meal of the day, and they’re so abundant and affordable (and simple to grow), why not just add them in as you’re preparing: salmon (smoked and fresh), scrambled eggs, salad, soup, sandwiches, anything.

The least expensive onions are the little yellow ones, which can be found for about $1 a pound in local groceries at this time of year. But are these common onions less potent? Not according to a study done in 2004 by Rui Hai Liu, associate professor of food science at Cornell University.

Liu and his team of researchers found a way to extract antioxidants from different foods and discovered that the more potent the onion, the greater the healing power.

Shallots are the champions of the onion world; they have as much as six times the phenolic and flavonoid content of Vidalia onions (which are the sweetest, mildest and therefore least effective onions).

A variety that Liu’s team calls Western yellows are the most powerful large onions, with 11 times the phenolic content of Western white onions.

In a specific study of the impact of onions on colon cancer, Liu’s team found that yellow and Western Yellow onions had the greatest power to stop the growth of the cancer cells; those two varieties and shallots had the greatest impact on liver cancer cells.

The yellow onions should be easy to find around here; they are grown in abundance in New York state. But don't feel a need to stick to just these varieties; all onions offer health benefits.

"Onions are one of the richest sources of flavonoids in the human diet," Liu said in an article on the Cornell Web site. "And flavonoid consumption has been associated with a reduced risk of cancer, heart disease and diabetes. Flavonoids are not only anti-cancer but also are known to be anti-bacterial, anti-viral, anti-allergenic and anti-inflammatory."

Onions also seem to have an anti-diabetic effect on the body. It’s not surprising when you think about it, but these bitter edibles apparently reduce the amount of glucose in the body after a meal. Studies have shown that the allyl propyl disulfide in members of the allium family (onions, garlic) increase the available amount of free insulin; and that their chromium increases the body’s glucose tolerance.

Onions and garlic are reputed to lower blood pressure and bad cholesterol levels. They are included in the small group of seven or so fruits and vegetables that are shown to lower the risk of heart disease, as are apples, (which combine with onions to make an excellent side dish for meats, including broiled chicken breasts).

Onions are also believed to increase bone strength, and have been shown to help women in menopause avoid osteoporosis.

Although, as with most vegetables, onions are probably most potent when they’re raw, they are still beneficial when cooked. Try tossing together a batch of caramelized onions from the wonderful "At Blanchard’s Table" cookbook. Keep it in the refrigerator for up to a week, and just add it on the side to main courses, soups, salads, mashed potatoes or sandwiches.

 

 Melted balsamic onions

Makes 1 1/2 cups

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 pounds red onions

1/2 cup sugar

1 1/4 cups balsamic vinegar

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

 

Heat the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook them until they’re soft but not brown (this should take 10 to 12 minutes).

Lower the heat and stir in the sugar and vinegar. Simmer very slowly, until the liquid is almost gone. This can take from 30 to 45 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature.

 

And a small tip:


 

Some cooks hate to work with onions because they burn the eyes and soft tissues in the nose. I picked up a trick that works really well from a television food show (sorry, can’t remember which one). The burning juices seek out the moistest parts of your face; to distract them from your eyes and nose, stick your tongue out while you chop. You know this trick works because the tip of your tongue begins to taste like an onion-laced salad. OK, so it looks a little funny. Do it before the guests arrive; or be sure your youngsters come in and watch you. It might make them enjoy onions all the more.

 

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